Cats | Pet Lover Blog

Adding a new member to your feline family is usually more exciting for you than your current cat. Even though they are solitary by nature, most cats eventually learn to accept or at least tolerate newcomers. Because they are very territorial, the way you go about introducing the new cat to your existing cat can mean the difference between success or “cat-astrophe.”

The introduction process can take as little as 10-12 days for kittens and very young cats, to as long as 12 weeks for older cats. It all depends on each cat’s personality. Be sure to give your “first” cat plenty of attention. This will help him feel secure that he is not in competition for your affection.

Confine your new cat to a “safe” room until the introduction process is complete. This should be a small room, such as a bathroom or small bedroom that your current cat rarely visits. Furnish it with a bed, scratching post, food, water and litter box.

In the beginning, your first cat may hiss and yowl at the cat on the other side of the door. Just ignore him and walk away. Never punish him for vocalizing aggressively, it will only cause trouble between the two cats. Be sure to praise and pet your first cat when he acts calmly when near the new cat’s room.

After a few days, take a rag or washcloth and rub it over your new cat as you pet and play with her. Use a different rag to do the same thing with your first cat. At feeding time, put each cat’s scented rag under the other cat’s bowl. This will help them associate the other cat’s scent with something positive-food. Lots of little feedings each day will help them get used to the smell more quickly. Be sure to renew the scent on the rags each day.

Next, you can feed them in closer proximity. Keep your new cat in her “safe” room with the door firmly closed, and place each cat’s dish on their side of the door. Be sure to feed them at the same time. Once they both eat with no growling or hissing, you can move to the next level of the introduction.

Close your first cat in a room he likes to frequent, making sure he has water, some favorite food and a litter box. Let your new cat out to explore the house. After a few hours, put her back in her room and let your first cat out. He will probably hiss and fuss when he smells another cat’s scent in HIS territory. Again, be patient and praise him when he acts calmly. Repeat this activity at least once a day until both cats seem comfortable.

Before you let the cats have full access to one another, let them come face to face in a safe situation. Use two hard plastic doorstops to jam the door to the new cat’s room open a mere 2-3 inches. Check that the door can’t be pushed open any further, and that neither cat can get its head through the opening. The object is to give them a chance to swat paws at one another and even go nose to nose without the opportunity for full body contact. Feed each cat on their respective side of the door. Once they no longer hiss or growl at one another, you can try playing with both of them in the same room.

© 2005, Kathy Burns-Millyard.

This article is provided courtesy of MyPetAnimals.com - http://www.mypetanimals.com - a large and growing pet website featuring articles, tips, advice and shopping for popular pet supplies, toys and accessories.

This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the author, copyright, website address and link, and this notice are left intact.

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For a cat, scratching is a natural, necessary act. Besides keeping her claws in top shape, the stretching involved in a good scratch keeps her upper body strong and loose. Also, every time a cat scratches a surface, scent glands between her toes leave her signature smell for others to find. In this way, she marks her territory, even if that happens to be in your living room.

Just because a cat must scratch doesn’t mean she must destroy your furniture. Redirecting a cat’s scratching to an appropriate object simply requires patience, flexibiity and time. To keep your cat from grooming her claws on your couch, you must give her some furniture of her own.

Scratching posts come in a wide variety of sizes and textures. If your cat doesn’t use the scratching post you have purchased, observe what she does scratch. Most cats have a preference as to the texture they scratch on. Experts discourage providing carpet-covered posts, especially if you have carpeting in your house. Your cat won’t understand the difference between the carpet on the scratching post and that on the floor. They both feel good to her.

Some cats like to extend their entire bodies when they stretch to scratch. Others just work their shoulder muscles. If your cat is one of the former, you’ll need to provide a tall, sturdy scratching surface. No matter what height your cat likes to use, be sure the scratching surface is stable. If your cat begins scratching and the post or board falls, it will frighten her and she will likely not use it again.

Another important factor to consider when providing scratching surfaces is their location. If you watch your cat, you’ll notice she will tend to look for a scratching spot wherever you spend a lot of time. That is why so many cats ruin their owner’s easy chair or couch. She is marking your spot as part of her territory, claiming ownership over you just in case some other cat comes in and gets the wrong idea. Putting a scratching post beside your favorite relaxing place will let her do her job without annoying you.

Remember, too, that your entire home is her territory. For that reason, it is a good idea to place scratching surfaces throughout the house, in places where you tend to linger. Bedrooms, kitchens, home offices are all places that are important to your cat because that is where you are likely to be.

If your cat persists in scratching furniture instead of the appropriate surface, you will have to retrain her. When you catch her about to scratch inappropriately, say “no” in a loud voice. Pick her up and carry her to her scratching surface. Some experts suggest gently taking her paw and simulating scratching to give her the right idea. If your cat only attacks the furniture when you are out of sight, it might be best to confine her to one room when you can’t supervise her. Be sure to put food, water, a litter box and, of course, a scratching surface in the room with her. Once she seems to have gotten the hang of only using her scratching posts, she can have free run of the house again.

© 2005, Kathy Burns-Millyard.

This article is provided courtesy of MyPetAnimals.com - http://www.mypetanimals.com - a large and growing pet website featuring articles, tips, advice and shopping for popular pet supplies, toys and accessories.

This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the author, copyright, website address and link, and this notice are left intact.

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The American Bobtail Cat is the only breed of cat I know of that has a really cool story as to its origins. Well, maybe. Actually the origin of the American Bobtail Cat seems to be in dispute. Depending on who you ask, it may or may not even be American at all.

According to some sources, there was a feral brown tabby kitten found on an Arizona Indian Reservation with a bobbed tail in the 1960’s. The cat got the name Yodie. Even though this was not by any means the first bobbed tail cat, many had been around and seen by the early settlers and Indians as well. But when Yodie was bred to a Siamese Cat, the standard for the American Bobtail Cat was born.

Other experts say that the American Bobtail Cat was brought here to the US from Europe as they came here to settle in the New World, making the American Bobtail Cat not so American.

Wikipedia.com says, “According to legend, bobtails are the result of a crossbreeding between a domestic tabby cat and a bobcat. Although this IS genetically possible, the unusual tail is actually the result of a random genetic mutation. The breed was recognized by the International Cat Association in 1989.”

According to Wikipedia, the American Bobtail Cat is not related to the Japanese Bobtail Cat in any way. They came from different genetic lines even though both have similar builds and colorings.

The appearance of the American Bobtail Cat, the wild look, the fuzz on the cheeks and tips of the ears, and it’s feral roots, lead some to believe that it could be related to the Bobcat or the Lynx. DNA tests have not been able to reach a conclusion that links the American Bobtail Cat to either of the two wild cat breeds.

Further confusion is due to the inability to narrow down the genes that cause the tail to be short in the first place. American Bobtail Cats have tails of varying lengths and shapes, so the standard is currently loosely defined as breeders try to isolate a way to breed toward a standard tail length and shape.

The variations include “Rumpies”, “Risers”, and “Half-Length Tails. Rumpies are American Bobtail Cats with no tail, while Risers are short stubby tails.

American Bobtail Cats are very loving and expect to be petted and loved in return. But watching your American Bobtail Cat go after prey or even imaginary prey, you would have a hard time associating it with the cat that was just purring in your lap minutes before.

They tend to be very muscular, have large feet, and have hindquarters that are higher than their shoulders, giving them the predator look. They can naturally survive in rough conditions and fend for themselves in the wild, yet are perfectly willing to let you care for and feed them.

If you want a cat that will be playful and loyal, yet tough and independent, a American Bobtail Cat might be the one for you.

Robin Darch, of PRT Specialised Services Limited has a website, My Pet Cat to help you find all the information you need about pet cats,grooming and training.

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