Cats | Pet Lover Blog

It is important to know how to bathe your cat. Cats generally to a fine job cleaning themselves, however, they my need a little help from time to time. In this case, it is important to know how to properly give you cat a bath.

Giving a cat a bath can be a little trick since most cats are not fond of water or getting wet.

There are dry bath products available on the market today to avoid the traditional bath altogether, however these products are better used to keep your cat clean and healthy rather than get them clean after a roll in the mud.

The dry bath products are generally a leave in treatments great for eliminating odor. A dry bath is a great idea for keeping you cat clean. It will usually not effect their current flea treatment because no water should be needed to wash it away. Always read the labels before using these products. They are safe to use on cats, but may contain different ingredients that you or your cat could be allergic to.

Dry bath products are great, but what do you do when your cat homes home late at night, covered in mud, paint, or something incredible messy and possible toxic? Lets face it, cats get into trouble sometimes.

You probably won’t want to let them come in the house and lay on your floor or furniture, and, unless you know what your cat is covered in, probably should not let them sit in the mess all night, or try and clean it themselves. You should never let your cat ingest a foreign substance if possible.

When this happens, hopefully on a rare occasion, you will want to know how to give your cat a bath.

If you’re very lucky, this may not be much trouble. Your cat might like the water. But if you have a normal cat like the rest of us, things could get pretty interesting.

When you’ve decided to give your cat a bath, you should get them a special kitty shampoo. The regular shampoo you use everyday may have harsh perfumes or chemicals that could be harmful to your cat. If this is not available, try and do the best you can with just water in an emergency. It may not be as easy, but this should get most of the muck out of your cat’s fur.

By this time you should be well aware of your cats temperament. You will know if your cat will fight you and how hard he or she will fight to get away from bath time. So take every precaution necessary to protect yourself and your cat. After all, most cats are equipped with an effective defense. Claws!

If you have a leather jumpsuit or bird handling gloves, then you’re set. Of course, most of us don’t have these types of armor and they are not necessary to get the job done. Rubber gloves are suggested, but long sleeves are a must! Personally, I’ve found that a thick, durable fabric like denim or even a thick cotton work just fine. Just make sure, what ever you wear, that it can’t be penetrated too easily by your cat’s claws.

The size of your cat, and intensity of his or her frenzy, should determine your bath space needed. You may be able to get away with using your sink for small cats and kittens. If not, use your bathtub and keep all doors closed. If you have a glass shower door, it’s not a bad idea to climb into the tub with your cat and keep that door closed too.

Stop! Before you throw you cat into tub of water, remember they will, most likely, be frightened.

When you attempt to give your cat a bath, chances are, your cat will know that something’s up even before you begin. Your cat may be frightened by the sound of running water, or the splashing sounds in the tub or sink. It’s usually not the best idea to run the water over your cat like a shower. This could startle your cat and cause him or her to spring into action and try to run away from it.

The best way I’ve found is to draw a shallow bath and have a cup handy to pour water, slowly onto your cat in order to wet him.

Maintain control! You are the master of your domain and don’t let your cat think otherwise in this situation. While hogtying your cat is not recommended, you will need to restrict his movement somewhat. This might take the effort of two people for unruly cats and may take some force. Whatever you do, please don’t hurt your cat!

Once you have control of your beast, and the water is ready, complete the procedure as quickly as possible.

Wet your cats coat thoroughly and lather him up with his own special shampoo. Do the best job you can; don’t forget the feet, tail and stomach. Always use extra special care when washing your cats face! Shampoo may not be needed in this area, and be very careful around his eyes.

Once your cat is soapy, start to rinse. Using the same, gentle pouring motion with your handy cup and the water in the tub rinse your cats fur. You may want to have a reserve of fresh, clean water for rinsing. Try and use your fingers to break up any matting and wok through thick coated areas. Rinse well, drain the tub, and you are almost done.

Now it’s time to dry your cat. Drying your cat shouldn not take as much effort as it seems. You will not be able to get him completely dry, so do your best and your cat, and time, will gladly finish the job.

When you let your cat out of the sink or bathtub, keep him in the area. Your cat will most likely want to shake first, just like dogs, and then gently, but with enthusiasm, rub your cat with a towel to rid him of excess water.

Your cat will begin to lick himself dry. You can them leave your cat in the bathroom until he’s dry, or let him out whenever you feel is best you, your home, your furniture, and your cat.

In order to simplify this process, here is a step by step guide on How to give a cat a bath:

Get cat shampoo

Suit up! Protect your body from potential injury.

Draw a shallow bath (warm, not hot or cold)

Restrain your cat

Wet

Lather

Rinse

and Dry

The last thing you should know before giving a cat a bath is not to be intimidated. It may not be as simple as one, two, thee, but it’s not impossible and you’ll both feel better when it’s over.

Angela Coyle is an avid cat lover, and owner of Hercules the cat, Murteza Abyssinian, Mango, and many others throughout the years. She is also currently an editor at http://www.cat-care-cat-information.com

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Cats are not turtles. Okay, I know what you’re thinking, people aren’t turtles, either. However, when you really think about it, people are a lot closer to turtles than cats in the sense that turtles, as well as people, can live to be 100 years or more. Not so for cats. In fact, in human terms, a cat who’s surpassed twelve years would be applying for their old age pension. Certainly cats can live longer than twelve years and, in fact, thanks to many factors, cats really are living much longer these days.

Dedicated care from their human companions plus advances in veterinary medicine are the main reasons. Most experts consider a cat’s “senior years” to begin on her 10th birthday. After this point, the aging process begins to slow in even the most playful feline. Yet, with a little extra attention from her resident human, a cat could enjoy another 5-10 years of life and love.

As with humans, cats often lose the ability to hear as they get older. This often goes unnoticed by their human companion because they think their cat’s lack of response is just typical feline aloofness. Unfortunately, without keen hearing and vision, an older cat becomes more vulnerable to threats from cars and dogs on the street, so it’s probably a good idea to keep an older cat indoors. If she loves the fresh air, then make sure you supervise her in a protected area when she is allowed outdoors.

Even the most easygoing cat can become a finicky eater in her later years. As an older cat’s senses of smell and taste begin to diminish, she becomes less interested in her food. Try adding moist food and warming her meals to amplify the scent and make her dinner more tantalizing.

Also, it’s important to keep fresh water available for your older cat, and to monitor her drinking habits. Her natural thirst drive can fade with age, causing her to become dangerously dehydrated rather quickly. Pay attention to about how much water your cat drinks each day. If the amount suddenly drops, and you know she is not getting water from any other source, you should consider contacting your veterinarian.

Common problems people see their older cats develop include difficulties swallowing due to decreased saliva production, less tolerance to extreme heat and/or cold, gum disease and tooth loss, a change in litter habits, and difficulty sleeping well.

Recent studies have uncovered a problem with potassium balance in many older cats. Poor coat condition, loss of appetite and lethargy have been linked to a mild form of hypokalemia, or low blood potassium. Low blood potassium damages the cat’s kidneys, which, in an older cat, are already weakening. This leads to a vicious cycle because declining kidney function increases the loss of potassium in the blood, which in turn causes further deterioration of the kidneys.

Arthritis and stiffness is fairly common in older cats as well and as it becomes more difficult to move, a geriatric cat spends more time sleeping. If her diet stays the same, she’ll begin to put on a lot of extra weight. This can add to her discomfort which makes her more inclined not to move. Without exercise her muscles will weaken, so it’s important to encourage an older cat to take part in some activity every day. Physical movement will help with digestion and bowel function, as well as keep her sharp mentally.

As a cat gets older, it spends less time grooming itself which may result in her hair becoming dry and matted. Regular grooming is required to keep her coat healthy and beautiful, so it’s best to schedule daily brushing to remove loose hair that can form uncomfortable hairballs in her stomach.

So, as I said, cats aren’t turtles. However, with love and care they can live for fifteen years or more. But remember, just as senior humans require special care, so does your feline friend. Pay attention to their needs and help make them as comfortable as possible.

Glenn Cutforth is a writer, publisher and graphic designer. His website, The Complete Cat at http://www.thecompletecat.com features The Complete Book of Cats & provides Cat owners a wealth of information and pictures on cats including Cat Care & Training, Cat Breeds, The History of the Cat and much more.

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Pilling a cat can be a “nightmarish” experience. Cats don’t want something pushed down their throats, and they’ll fight with all their might to prevent it. In fact, it’s amazing how powerful their small bodies can be. Here are some ways to make the pilling process easier and less stressful - for both you and your cat.

The easiest way of pilling a cat is to crush the pill into a powder by using mortor & pestle or by putting the pill between two spoons. Then mix the powder with a small amount of wet food (preferably a preservative free, healthy wet food). If your cat usually eats dry food, she will probably view the wet food as a treat and eat it up.

If the medication is a capsule, just pull the capsule apart, sprinkle the contents on the wet food, & mix, & serve.

If your cat won’t eat the wet food that contains the pill or if she is too ill to eat, you can get a “pill gun”, also called a “pet piller”, from your veterinarian. This is a plastic rod with little rubber cups on the end that hold the pill until a plunger is pressed. It’s best to get a long gun with a soft tip.

Your vet can show you how to use the pill gun, but here are some basic instructions. Getting your cat’s mouth open is going to be the most difficult part. First, be sure the pill is in a handy place. You can put your cat on a bookshelf with her bottom in a corner or you can put her on your lap firmly braced. Have your cat facing to the right if you’re right handed, & vice versa. With your left hand, grip your cat at the cheekbones, putting your palm at the top of her head. Keeping your finger off the trigger, with your right hand, insert the pill gun until the pill is positioned over the tongue & open throat. Then pull the trigger & withdraw the gun quickly. Be sure to give your cat a treat directly after giving the pill.

If you don’t feel comfortable using a pill gun, you can try giving the pill by hand. Extend your cat’s head backwards just far enough so that her nose is pointing towards the ceiling. At this point, most cats will slightly open their mouths. With the little finger or ring finger of the hand holding the pill, open the bottom jaw a little more. You may need to hold her top jaw with your other hand while doing this. Aim straight and lightly throw the pill or drop it so that it hits beyond the hump in her tongue. (Be sure to drop or lightly throw the pill rather than shoving it down so that your cat is not as likely to gag and so that you lessen your chance of getting bitten.) Most cats will then instinctively swallow the pill.

In case none of these “pilling” strategies work, as a last resort try to find a compounding pharmacy, and have them make flavored liquid or gel out of the medication.

Deena Caruso, author, teacher, & distributor of natural pet products
Helps pet owners create healthy, happy pets.
To receive FREE “Pet Pointers” Newsletter, go to:
http://www.healthyfoodforpets.com deecaruso@cox.net
Ph: 760/758-7963, 877/877-0665

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