Cats | Pet Lover Blog

The Ragdoll cat breed has an unusual history. According to one story, aliens brought this cat here; a cat that gets its name from the way it goes limp like a Ragdoll when you pick one up.

The Ragdoll cat breed originated in Riverside, California in the 1960s; the breed was founded by an eccentric woman named Ann Baker. The very first Ragdoll cat was a Persian-Birman mix named Josephine. Ragdoll cats come in a variety of colors today, including blue, bicolor, color point, torte, mink, and lynx.

The Ragdoll cat is the largest breed of domestic cat; males can weigh in over twenty pounds when fully mature. Ragdolls are registered by all of the major cat associations and recognized as a purebred cat.

Ragdoll cats are easy going and best known for their characteristic limpness when held. They have medium longhair coats and shed very little for having coats of this length. Ragdolls are very low maintenance cats; they have silky rabbit like fur and do most of their grooming themselves. Because of their size, Ragdoll cats tend to be slightly clumsy; these cats do not typically make good mousers, they are just too laid back to care about mice. Many Ragdoll cats exhibit dog-like behaviors; for example, this breed will run to the door to greet you upon returning home.

Part of what makes this cat so unusual are the stories Ann Baker told about its origins. On one account Ann Baker claimed here new breed of cat was brought here by aliens; another account states the breed was genetically engineered by the government.

Alien or government conspiracy aside, the Ragdoll has quickly become one of the most popular breeds of cat available today.

Ben Harper is a Ragdoll cat enthusiast and founder of the site Ragdoll Cats which was established to promote the Ragdoll cat breed. To learn more about this unusual cat visit: http://www.ragdollcats.info

Share This

The cat backs up to the door, lifts the tail and releases a fine spray of urine. Yes, your cat is spraying. You have a problem. But one you can solve.

Figures from the British Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors say that aggression in dogs and marking behavior in cats are the biggest behavior problems in the UK pet population.

Spraying is marking behavior, not a litter box problem. Sprayed cat urine contains pheromones, a substance that animals use to communicate. Combinations of pheromones work like fingerprints: they identify the cat.

A spraying cat marks his or her territory with cat urine. It simply says: ‘This is mine’. You may not like it, but getting angry doesn’t help. It may even have an opposite effect: more spraying.

Cats in heat are attracted by the odor of cat urine. For them, spraying is something like an invitation to love. The results may be there in 65 days: a nest of cute little kittens.

Cats do not only spray during sexual encounters. Some also do it during conflicts with other felines, or when they are stressed.

For people the scent is far from pleasant. Thankfully most cats spray outside. But what if you have a cat spraying inside? Do something about it! And yes, that is possible.

The most radical and effective thing you can do is neutering or spaying your cat. Most castrated toms stopped spraying from the day they were operated.

But maybe you have a reason not to neuter your cat. In that case try to find out why your cat sprays.

Maybe it sprays only when it sees another cat. Solution: block the view. Or it sprays because of a conflict with another pet. Keep them separated and problems might be over.

If you don’t know why your cat sprays, discuss it with your veterinarian. Chances are he will advice you to spay or neuter. But your vet can also check if there is a medical problem.

Anyway, do not leave this problem unsolved. Cat urine odor and stains can make your home a very uncomfortable place, and your cat will still remain a cat even when it doesn’t spray anymore.

————————————–
Journalist, site builder and cat lover Marc de Jong is the editor and owner of http://www.cat-pregnancy-report.com, a website about cat pregnancy, kitten care, cat health and other cat related subjects.

Share This

No one wants to invest hundreds or even thousands of dollars in furnishings only to see them ripped to shreds by an overzealous pet, however beloved. To many people the obvious answer is to have their cats declawed, but it this really a reasonable alternative?

Its proponents depict it as a simple and painless operation, but it is neither simple or painless. Most people aren’t aware that it’s not just the claws that are removed. Declawing involves the amputation of the first joint of each toe, and as any amputee can tell you, the pain persists for months if not years. The only difference is your cat can’t tell you it still hurts.

This doesn’t mean you have to put up with shredded furniture and drapes, or snagged carpets. I have four cats of my own, none of then declawed, and my upholstery and curtains are intact and my rugs unsnagged. There are a number of steps you can take to minimize or eliminate the damage.

1. Give them what they want.

Scratching is not just a means of sharpening claws, it’s a vital form of exercise that tones and strengthens the muscles. Even declawed cats go through the motions. It’s instinctive. Birds gotta swim, fish gotta fly, cats gotta scratch. Whatever. So give them something suitable to scratch on, preferably not one of those pint-sized carpet-covered pet department abominations. That only confuses them.

If that’s what you already have, at least pull off the carpeting and wrap it with good quality jute or sisal rope, half-inch in diameter, wound tightly and secured with glue. If you sew, you might try making a slip cover you can easily remove and replace as necessary. Burlap is good for this, but almost any fabric with a heavy weave or a textured surface will work. My own cats are partial to upholstery velvet and corduroy. Ideally the post should be at least two inches higher than the cat can reach.

Many cats prefer a horizontal surface to scratch on, and take well to a commercial scratching pad made from corrugated cardboard.

Whatever you decide to use, spray it lightly with catnip extract (not synthetic - they WILL know the difference) and place it near your cat’s favorite scratching spot. Once he or she becomes accustomed to the new surface, gradually move it to a more convenient location. These materials tend to be messy, so choose a spot where you can easily sweep or vacuum around it.

2. Use your good judgement when choosing fabrics and rugs.

Pass up all those lovely but delicate satin and damask weaves or the aforementioned textured surfaces. These are cat magnets. Knits and other stretchy fabrics are an open invitation to snags. Leather and faux leathers are also major no-no’s. Sheer panels at the windows? Forget it!

Look for strong fabrics with a tight weave such as sailcloth or canvas. Most denims hold up well, also. For curtains, go with something like percale or chintz. Most of the curtains at my house are made from bedsheets, and are not only attractive but virtually indestructible. For carpeting, a medium or low plush is preferable to a berber or a sculptured pile. Remember, minimum texture is the key.

As long as we’re on the subject, think brown. That way when your cat upchucks on it, and it will, it won’t be such a disaster. If your cat is still drawn to the furniture, a number of companies sell clear plastic corner protectors that self-adhere to most fabrics.

3. Trim the claws.

It’s not as difficult as it might seem, especially if you start them as kittens. Use a specifically designed animal nail trimmer and start out slow. Begin by just handling the paws, and practice extending the claws without trying to trim. The cat will become accustomed to being handled and will be less likely to react violently to the actual trimming. After a few days of this, try trimming, just one or two nails at a time, and only take off the very tips. If you still find it troublesome, most professional groomers will do it for a minimal fee.

4. Claw caps.

These are soft plastic covers that are glued onto the claws and last for up to 4-6 weeks. I’ve never tried them myself, but many people report good results.

Cats and people have shared living quarters for thousand of years, and with a little forethought and cooperation we should be able to maintain a harmonious relationship between ourselves, our pets, and our furniture.

Copyright 2005

Kathie Freeman is the author of Catwalk, a Feline Odyssey.
For more of her articles and short stories visit Kathie’s Stories and Tails at http://home.att.net/~kathiefreeman/

This article is free to use as long as the byline and this source information is included.

Share This