Cats | Pet Lover Blog

Tired of cleaning the cat box? Here are some tips on how to train your cat to use the toilet.

So, you’re sick and tired of scooping poo from your cat’s litter box, emptying the residual mess, and gagging from the whole process. Cat’s can be trained to use a toilet. It is safe, clean, and effective. Some cats learn in a couple of weeks, while others will take up to six weeks to get the message.

But several things must be considered first.

What kind of cat person are you?

If you are indifferent to your cat, and consider it as a grudging necessity it is doubtful you have the patience and enough love to go through the rigorous toilet training process. However, if you perceive your cat to be an extended member of the family, a crucial part of your happiness, you have what it takes.

There are many types of cats. Is your cat a strictly outdoor feline? Is she a farm-cat, your husband’s or wife’s cat, your kids’ cat? If so, then there is little point in toilet training it. She prefers doing her business in your flower garden, on the neighbor’s lawn, or in the dirt. Cats are heavily into their preferences being the independent creatures they are.

However, if your cat lives in the house and her happiness lies with being with her human family, acts as if she owns the place, and the motor runs loudly when petted and loved, you are ahead of the game.

Toilet Training Step by Step

Okaynow you’ve decided to toilet train your cat. Let’s get on with the business of how to do that.

The younger your Muffy or Scooter is, the easier it is to train it. How curious is your cat about the toilet? Does she often go in the bathroom and wander around the toilet? Does she sometimes play in the water? The younger the cat, the easier it will be to modify its behaviors. Training a thirteen pound cat that is five years old will not lead to success. The younger the feline, the easier it will be.

Place a cat trainer liner under the toilet seat. These can be purchases at any good pet store, Wal-Mart, K-Mart, etc. Place some cat litter on the liner. Your kitty will likely play in it for awhile, but that is okay. She will come to realize that this is her new litter box. When she goes on the litter, praise her, and give her a kitty treat as a reward. Clean the litter so she comes to expect a clean place every time. When she’s done her business on the liner several times, cut a hole in the liner so the waste goes into the toilet. She will get used to the noise this makes. Add a little less litter to the liner about once a week, and make the hole bigger each time. Do this step until your cat goes on the seat on its own and comfortably.

Next, get a toddler toilet training seat and put it on the toilet. Putting a big of litter on the seat will make your kitty feel more comfortable at first. Since cats have a need to scratch something when they potty, this will help her.

After several weeks of going through this last process, your cat will feel comfortable jumping on the toilet seat, doing her thing, and jumping off to go about her next item of business. The whole process will take several weeks, and you will have to flush for her.

Give your tabby a treat and praise her every time she uses the toilet.

But flushing behind your kitty is a small price to pay for getting rid of that obnoxious litter box that makes you want to hurl every time you clean it.

Alternatives

There are also self cleaning litter boxes, and even a flushable kitty toilet on the market. Here’s some links to find out more. They can be expensive, but a good alternative if you don’t want to take the time and effort to toilet train your cat.

http://cats.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=cats&zu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.petfoodexpress.com

http://store.yahoo.com/americanesuperstore/lm500.html

http://www.litter-robot.com/default.aspx?ac=1

http://www.litterbox-central.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54

Jillanne Kimble is the Acquisitions Editor for Kimble McKay Literary Arts Group. They help writers become authors in the traditional publishing industry through time-tested methods, full support, and their huge databases of agents and publishers who are looking for new talent. You can reach her at http://www.kimblemckay.netfirms.com; or jakimble@direcway.com.

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Cats and our gardens are generally a bad combination. Whether it’s our own beloved feline crushing our prized perennials or a neighbour’s cat improvising a litter box on our lawn, cats and gardens are a bad mix. However don’t lose hope, cats are intelligent and can easily be conditioned to respect our gardens. This can be applied to whether we want to create a “cat zone” in our garden for our own feline, or if we want to keep the marauding mass of neighbourhood cats away.

Of course the best and most effective solution would be to keep our cats indoors and only allow them outdoor on a leash. The primary cause of early cat mortality and development of infectious disease is from their unsupervised outdoor wanderings. While we can insure that our own cats become “leash lovers”, we cannot control the actions of others, thus we need to be aware of the variety of ways to keep cats from claiming our gardens.

While some prefer to “acquaint” unwelcome cats with a quick and unexpected squirt from their garden hose, this method can traumatize the poor animal and only works if you guard your property militantly for weeks until they have associated your property with “water attacks”. A more subtle, yet effective method would be to plant Rue throughout your garden wherever your “guests” frequent. Cats find the strong odour of Rue to be extremely offensive. Other “odourifous” methods include: Scattering cayenne pepper after every rainfall in your garden, spreading crushed hot peppers, and pouring a mixture of grapefruit and lemon rind throughout the garden.

Another possible solution is to spray your property with predatory urine. Cats mark their personal territories through the process of spraying their “turf”. Individuals can purchase “urine” sprays for their garden that in effect “mark” their lawn, signifying a dominant cat has already claimed the garden. You can even go so far as to order Coyote urine to mark your property (just don’t tell the neighbours what you are spraying or they will think you are insane). Another possibility is the “Get off my Garden” crystals from Australia. These clear crystals ward off neighbouring cats through an intense odour (unnoticeable to humans). They actually become more effective after each rainfall. Finally, there are the American electronic-fright devices such as Scat Cat and Scarecrow. Both apply the same method of unexpected movement, flashing lights and surprise.

On the other hand, creating a “Cat Garden” within your existing garden can be both enjoyable for yourself and your beloved pet. By creating a “room of their own” in the garden, you not only increase their stimulation, but also deter them from approaching or damaging other areas of your garden.

Of course the plant to begin with is Nepeta Cataria, otherwise known as Catnip. This lush, beautiful plant with its scattering of pale blossoms will not only amuse your cat, it will be a beautiful addition to your garden. Just remember to put it into the mid or back section of your “Cat garden”, as it will take a fair amount of abuse from your feline. Other plants to include in your cat’s garden are: Catmint (Nepeta mussinii), an elegant hardy plant with attractive silver leaves that your cat will enjoy rolling in. Cat thyme (Teucrium marum) a member of the mint family, will provide hours of enjoyment with its subtle and intoxicating aroma. Silver Vine (Actinidia plygama), Valerian (Valeriana officianalis) and Cat grass, will all create a sense of ecstatic frenzy in your cat. Their intoxicating aromas and enjoyable texture will amuse your cat for hours. In addition, all of these plants are visually stunning and will help you to create a beautiful and dramatic design.

To truly create a Garden of Eden for your cat you will also need to have a secluded (hidden) area of litter for your cat, just remember to use the non-clumping formula.

Through a mixture of these methods our furry felines and we can live not only in harmony, but appreciate the wonders of nature together.

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Cat arthritis is not a very common ailment among healthy cats. Most arthritis found in cats is from an accident that has made the bones or joints weak. Arthritis is an inflammation of the joints and there is more than one type of arthritis that can affect your cat.

Cats usually suffer with two different types of arthritis. The first one being traumatic arthritis, this is brought on by an injury. It could have been a fight with another animal or even being hit by a car. Osteoarthritis is when a joint just quits working properly and new bone is growing around the joint. Many older cats have this type of arthritis and can be brought on from numerous accidents including dislocations of their joints or even fractures.

Traumatic arthritis does not usually last but can be very painful, if it is more or less a sprain. But, if it involves a fracture then the pain can last a longer time and may even need surgery to heal the fracture or dislocation.

As in the case of Osteoarthritis the pain is severe and your cat will need some relief from the pain. If your cat is overweight the pain can even be more severe.

Talk with your veterinarian if you do believe that your cat does have a type of cat arthritis. Your cat will enjoy life more and be able to chase those mice again if treatment is regular. It is no fun to play and jump and be a cat when they are in severe pain. The longer your cat sits around in pain the stiffer the joints will become. The pain will then increase with every step they take. Be sure to get the treatment your cat needs so they can enjoy life once again.

Niall Kennedy
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